Around India in 80 days

Travelling on business is not at all like traveling for the pure pleasure of it. Trailing David last weekend took me to Chennai after blasting through Bangalore. Another plane ride, another airport, another car ride to spend two days in Chennai. This trip has given me a deeper appreciation of the work business travel really is. My wholehearted appreciation goes to David! Travelling with David has an "Around the World in Eighty Days" feeling! However, now that Daniel and Rachel are off to college, I plan to seize each opportunity to travel and see India. Carpe diem!

We arrived Chennai after a forty-five minute plane ride from Bangalore. Unlike cool Bangalore, Chennai has warmer, Delhi-like weather albeit with more humidity. I felt right at home!

Chennai, formerly known as Madras, is the state capital of Tamil Nadu and the gateway to the rich and varied culture of the South Indian peninsula. Originally a cluster of fishing hamlets along the Coromandel coast, the city developed its cohesive shape under the British. Today, it is South India's commercial and cultural capital, the fourth largest metropolis in India. It is a dynamic mix of the old and the new, its stately colonial structures juxtaposed with modern high-rises.

The Hindu Kapaleshvara Temple opened to worshippers later in the day but was equally interesting from the outside. The temple gate had the typical colorful recursive fractal-like spires. Flower ladies ensconced themselves in front of the large green temple door. They had heaps of flowers and adroitly strung them to make garland offerings for the temple. Along the streets were numerous kiosks doing the same. Flowers were everywhere and a hushed tranquil feeling pervaded the atmosphere around the temple. A bent lady carried white powder and created a lavish rangoli on the street facing the temple gate. On special days, the rangoli became more elaborate and was filled in with different shades of powder. I walked down the street and visited the little stalls. There were bowls of bindi powder, jars of pooja powder, strands of black hemp with crystal terminations to ward off evil spells, turmeric roots for bathing...such an abundance of ritual, color and history in these little stalls! A microcosm of India itself!

Chennai's link with Christianity dates to the 1st century AD, to the time of St. Thomas the apostle. It is believed that in 72AD, a mortally wounded St Thomas sought refuge in a cave on Little Mount. The Portuguese subsequently built the Blessed Sacrament Chapel over the cave. In the 10th century, a group of Nestorian Christians from Persia discovered the saint's burial site and built a church and tomb. This is the present Basilica of San Thome, an impressive Gothic-style structure built in 1898.* I followed suit and left my shoes at the door to say a short prayer. San Thome has an ornate interior with magnificent stained glass windows. There was a scattering of believers around me. All noise and worries seemed to vanish in this reverent sanctum.

We awoke early next morning and departed our hotel at 6:30am to visit Mamallapuram, 58 km south of Chennai. Our driver proceeded very slowly (as if to allow the morning light to escape). He explained that the site opens at 9:00am. We decided to stop for breakfast at the Taj Fisherman's Cove, a pleasant and relaxing resort off the Bay of Bengal. I thought it was unlikely that this UNESCO World Heritage Site would not be open at an early hour. After all, it was in the morning light that would cast the best shadows on this awesome monument. We got there past 8am to find that the visiting hours began at 6am! Lesson learned: do your homework!

Mamallapuram, built in the 7th century by Mamalla was once a major port-city. This spectacular site situated on the Bay of Bengal extends across a boulder strewn landscape and comprises rock-cut caves and monolithic shrines, structural temples and huge bas-reliefs that are considered the greatest examples of Pallava art. The stone-carving tradition that created these wonders is still alive in the many workshops scattered around the village. The spectacular Shore Temple, perched dramatically on a promontory by the sea has survived the ravages of time and erosion.* We marveled at the Panch Pandava Cave Temple. We saw Krishna's Butter Ball, a natural boulder sitting precariously on a slope. Groups of people had their photographs taken in the rolling path of the giant boulder. What belief, what faith, that today is not the day that big rock rolls down!

We returned to town to have lunch with N. Kumar. A smiling man with marvelous manners that put everyone instantly at ease, he met us at the door of his home. Mr. Ajit Singh, Consul-General of Singapore had arrived before us. A little later we were introduced to the gracious Mrs.Kumar, who unfortunately could not join us due to unexpected circumstances.

Kumar hosted lunch at the elegant Taj Coromandel. As I have experienced many times in India, stepping into an upper crust hotel means leaving the dust, dirt, and chaos that is India and stepping into paradise which is also India! While wiating at the Taj lobby with Kumar we peered into the elegant hotel boutique. A mannequin in a salwar kameez stood at the window. Madras conjures up images of flowing silks and cottons blowing in a gentle warm breeze. I commented to Kumar that I wished I could wear a sari. It seemed too daunting a task! From our conversations, I also learned that Kumar is a tennis enthusiast. Ah, a man after my own heart! He has stood on the same court as Vijay Armitrage and has even taken sets off the Indian legend! A few days later, we received an email and Kumar has reserved me a seat at the Chennai Open in January. YES!

Kumar introduces us to South Indian cuisine. A warm silver plate is set in front of us; six or seven katoris (small metal bowls) are arranged around the warm plate. There was an amazing range of imaginatively cooked dishes which I shall not attempt to name. Fish was at the center of the plate. We were also treated to the delicious Appam, a bowl shaped thin pancake meant to be the wrapper for a creamy vegetable dish. I watched Mr. Singh and Mr. Kumar for cues on how to properly proceed with eating the feast laid in front of us. Upon Mr. K's urging, I tried some 'gunpowder' and decided it was not nearly as threatening as its name! What a wonderful introduction to south Indian cuisine, in the most elegant of surroundings with the most gracious of hosts! Thank you, Mr. Kumar!

We had a few hours before our flight departed at 8:00pm that evening. Upon both Mr. Kumar and Mr. Singh's suggestion, we visited Amethyst, a beautiful boutique tucked into an ancestral home set amidst a mature garden. Frangipanis, palms, yuccas, and ferns growing in and through each other in a bramble reminded me of a garden my mother might have tended. Tulsi (basil) grew profusely along the paths. I wandered through the interconnecting rooms picking out kurtas and tops to try, enjoying the experience of shopping at such posh surroundings. Amethyst had beautiful shoes and bags and an amazing collection of silver jewelry. Immediately outside the shopping rooms was a large parlour with tables and chairs scattered around it. Lighting was subdued and relaxed; white ceiling fans gave the home a decidedly British Raj look. A wrap around veranda ran the perimeter of the house. A lady in her purple chiffon kali walked following her daughter in tee shirt and jeans. David and I picked our corner and settled down to read and unwind. He enjoyed an affogato al cafe, a gloriously decadent dessert of espresso poured over ice cream. I decided to be sensible and ordered a bowl of fruit with cinnamon and orange. It hit the spot but I looked wistfully at David and wished I had been decadent instead!

Where ever I find myself, I discover two Indias. It no longer confuses and confounds me. No longer frustrates me. After all, Mr. Kumar assures us, "No one knows India." He adds, "you must accept confusion; only then will you see clarity in this confusion." Soon I will be wise enough to accept India as it is, enjoy all it has to offer. Very soon.

*India Eyewitness Travel Guides